Ahhh… Yakitori.. Yakimono.. Kushiyaki… when it comes to grilled things – the Japanese got it right… what is it about that intoxicating smell.. that seems to evoke memories of good times.
A Japanese friend of mine told me about some railway arches near Ginza, in Yurakucho where there were a handful of yakitori shacks where commuters congregate before making the journey home. I just had to visit on my next trip as they were said to have some of the best yakimono (grilled things) in Tokyo. Soon after, one day I happened to be watching Rick Stein and the Japanese Ambassador and he also ended up at this place my friend told me about… so last year during our month long trip to Japan… armed with a list of all the things I had to eat and try that month… I had to go and find this place…
Yakitori place under the rail arches in Yurakucho, Tokyo
On our 2nd day in Tokyo, still dazed from jetlag and always hungry… we set out on the hunt for the legend of Yakitori alley. We got off the metro at Ginza, and walked to Yurakucho, navigating through disorienting neon lights and crowds of people… past the mini Godzilla statue.. to some railway arches… were we found a couple of yakitori shops tucked away in an archway… apparently there used to be more but the city closed a few down…
These cramped places are tucked away into the sides of the arches and can seat maybe 15 people max… on the walls are posters of beer ads.. the menu… the air is a strong mix of the grill and cigarette smoke… this place looked like the place people come to after work on their way home… I loved the place we went to… it was so makeshift…
Yakitori place in the arch, Yurakucho, Tokyo
We had a look over the menu…. ooh what to choose… what to choose
Yakitori Menu at Yakitori Alley, Yurakucho, Tokyo
As it was a little cold and wet… a hot large carafe of sake was in order, coupled with a pint of yebisu.
We started with the cucumber and miso. The miso was interesting.. a coarse one rather than a paste.. that the owner had made himself. I ordered some chicken, chicken ball, chicken wings… I’m having a Homer Simpson moment as I reflect back on it… they were juicy, hot, crusted with that charred caramel goodness… covered in a lovely sauce… We then ordered some shitake mushrooms, shisito peppers, leeks and gingko nuts and the garlic… there is nothing in the world as good as roasted garlic.. but when its is grilled japanese style… it wins hands down… that was just too good…
After about half and hour, people came to sit at the table next to us. It looked like a boss was taking out his colleagues. We were the only non-japanese in there so we aroused some curiousity from our neighbours. My japanese was basic, but was able to have a mini conversation with the boss. After a few minutes, they pushed their table closer to ours and then came a round of hoppy, a kind a beer like drink with shochu, courtesy of the boss… and more sake.. and a little more hoppy… we had a great time.. and it was just so cool we were able to hang out with them…
Check it out if you’re ever in Tokyo… I’ve included a map below…
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